Saturday, February 20, 2016

McCall's 6053 (1914)

McCall's 6053 is a reproduction pattern offered by Past Patterns. When I bought it a couple years ago, Saundra told me that it was a problem pattern and that if I had issues with the construction to give her call.  I began making this dress about six months ago and became so frustrated with the directions that I had to put the project to the side. The problem? Aside from the enumerable dots and dashes spattered all over the pattern pieces to denote this pleat here, there, and everywhere, I discovered too late into the project that pattern piece "U" (the side pieces of the over-tunic) needed to be widened by several inches in width to meet the 32-34" waist measurement. If I were to create the pleats following the dots and dashes on the over-tunic pattern pieces and cut the skirt sections using the pattern/fabric layout, the waist of the over-tunic would be about 3" too small. Never mind the bodice, under-tunic, and over-tunic attachment and pleating alignment issues with the short-sleeve version of this dress. Why not just eighty-six the directions? Because when writing a review on this historical dress pattern, I wanted to give an honest assessment on its quality and level of skill. However, in the end - after fussing and fighting way too long with this insufferable pattern - I threw out the directions and let my dressmaking sensibilities and skills take over. 

I have finished the short-sleeved version of this dress (pictured below) and I'm currently working the long-sleeved version. When using this pattern, I strongly recommend that a toile is made first in order to work your way through the bugs of its construction, especially when making the short-sleeved version of the dress (note the differences in the bodice construction and pleat placement between the two versions). 

For construction photos of this dress, please visit my Flicker page. Blessings and happy sewing!